If you live in N. Texas, now through the end of January is the time to plant your onion sets and slips! Good onion production relies heavily on both soil temperature and day-length after emerging so it's crucial to plant them on schedule. In our region, you need to plant Short-day type varieties (in case you've been flipping through seed catalogs).

Plant your slips about 4-5" apart and about 3-4" deep (don't bury the green portion). Onion sets (bulblets) can be planted the same distance apart and about 2" deep. Onions are traditionally heavy Nitrogen feeders so about 3 weeks after planting (when you see green tops emerging from the sets) start feeding with a good veggie fertilizer. Side dress your onions about every 2-3 weeks. When tops start to yellow in late spring, stop feeding and watering. Let the tops start to die down...and about 2-3 weeks later you'll harvest your onions.

PC: Leslie F. Halleck

Onions then need to "cure", after harvest which basically means to dry/harden off. You can of course use your freshly harvested onions in the kitchen for cooking, but if you plan to store them you need to cure them for 2-3 weeks before you bring them indoors or put them in a refrigerator. You can simply lay them out in flats in a dry covered area. The bulb will pull the remaining nutrients out of the top green foliage, which will turn completely brown and the neck will harden. At this point, you can cut off the tops and store your onions in mesh onion bags.

Visit your local independent garden center for more growing information and to buy your slips/sets, pronto!

Some of you may be wondering what, if anything, you can plant right now in Texas. You might be surprised at your options! The standard answer is...LOTS.

While some areas of Texas are colder than others right now, the main factor to take into account is whether or not your soil freezes in the winter. Generally, ours does not. That means you can continue planting all trees, fruit trees, shrubs, roses, perennials, perennial groundcover and cool season annuals and veggies. You can also continue planting cool-season color such as pansies, violas, snapdragons, Gerbera daisies (yes..I'm looking at some gorgeous ones on the nursery table as I type). The plants are far more protected from winter temps in the ground than they are in pots...so if they are out on the nursery table unprotected and still look great, well then you don't have much to worry about.

Best advice on what to plant when? Go to a real garden center. Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart are not real garden centers. A good garden center will have in-stock what you should be planting, at any given time during a season. They will also have expert staff that can teach you how to grow successfully.

Here is a list of what you can plant right now (it is not by any means comprehensive, but just a basic guide)

• Pre-chilled Tulip bulbs, Daffodils, Dutch Iris, Crocus, Iris, Hyacinth, Leucojum, Spanish Bluebells and more.
• Very cold hardy veggie transplants such as Kale, Broccoli, Mustard Greens, Spinach, Pak Choi (you can also seed spinach outdoors), Cardoon.
• Cool season and perennial herbs - Cilantro, Dill, Parsley, Oregano, Rosemary, Thyme, Curry, Mint and more.
• Perennials such as Salvias, Turk's cap, Scabiosa, Rudbeckia, Hellebore, Evergreen ferns, Leopard plant, Heuchera and much more.
• Pansies, Violas, Iceland poppy, Snapdragons, Alyssum, Gerber daisy, Dianthus, Cyclamen, Primrose
• Roses, Hollies, Indian Hawthorne, Nandina, Mahonia, Camellia, Yew,Passion vine, Carolina Jessamine, Cross Vine...much more.
• (Any container grown tree) Italian Stone pine, Atlas cedar, fruit trees (all), Japanese maples, Flowering trees (Mexican Plum, ornamental cherry, peach, etc) Shade trees (Maples, Oaks, Pistache, etc.)

There are many other plants that can go in the ground right now, but hopefully this will give you a place to start if you're hesitant about planting. And btw...get this material in the ground now, and you'll have a much easier time getting it through next summer. It can take a good year or two for new plantings to get established. The larger the plant material, the longer that new establishment period (a 2" caliper tree, will need about 2 years to root in...a 3" caliper tree will need 3 years, etc. Shrubs, roses, perennials, etc. need a good year-2 years).

Have some frost cloth on hand to protect newly planted herbaceous plants if we're going to have a hard freeze.

Seriously folks, I know it's like pulling teeth to get most of you to follow this advice that us expert horticulturists are always trying to get you to follow. But it's for your own good. Really.

I realize that many of you that have transplanted from up North just aren't used to planting in Fall and Winter. You plant in April and May. That's the only time you plant. But I'm hoping that after this last brutal summer, you'll finally realize why it's the better choice than planting in spring. I'm talking trees, shrubs, groundcovers and perennials here.

Especially with water restrictions most likely to be in place for our long-term future, you're really setting yourself up for much more summer success if you'll plant your high-dollar or larger specimens now. Yes, you can plant trees and shrubs when they are completely dormant. Our soil doesn't freeze here, so you can plant year-round. When you plant now, your beauties will have many months to start putting down roots and start getting established before they have to suffer through the heat of summer. Our fall and winter weather is mild, we usually get a decent amount of rainfall, such that you only have to water minimally. The sun isn't nearly as intense as it is in summer so plants get a much needed break when newly planted.

Plant now, and it will be much easier for you to get your plantings through next summer. Plant those trees and shrubs in May...and you'll struggle continuously to get them established in the heat. You may end up having to replace them because they just don't get consistent enough moisture due to the environmental conditions. Why waste the time and money? No one likes having to start over, much less spend more money on replacement plants.

Good nurseries will still have a good selection of fruit trees (because now is the best time to plant them), shade trees, Japanese maples, hardy foundation shrubs, groundcovers and drought-hardy perennials.

So...get planting! I do all my major landscaping in fall and winter...I have some new beds I'll be putting in very soon. Photos to come!

Plums in bloom
PC: Leslie F. Halleck

White Flowering Camellia

What a winter lovely...

This is Camellia sasanqua 'Setsugekka', a lovely double-ish white blooming Camellia. I planted two of these in large ceramic containers on either side of my front door. They make for a wonderful homecoming each day as they are highly fragrant, something we often forget about certain Camellia varieties.

I'm partial to the C. sasanqua hybrids because they often perform better in our climate and soils and are a very sturdy upright specimens. This particular variety grows to about 10' tall, but can be kept shorter. A perfect evergreen for containers. Will bloom through December into January.

Sometimes Camellia flower buds can be nipped in a hard freeze, so I do use frost cloth or Plankets to cover my Camellia in pots while they are in bud. The plants themselves generally don't need protecting, but you don't want to lose your flower buds.

Just thought you might enjoy some flower shots on this dreary day...

Freeze Fresh Pesto for the Winter

Still have basil in the garden here in Texas? If so, I'd say today is the perfect day to get it harvested and start making Pesto to put away for the winter.

Basil won't tolerate temperatures below 40 F degrees and we've already dipped to 40F at night, and into the mid- to high- 30's in some parts of Texas at night. Pine nuts, the traditional ingredient in pesto, can be pricey...but you don't have to use them. You can use any other nut you have on hand like walnuts or almonds - it's just as good! And remember, you can make pesto from many different herbs...it doesn't have to be basil. One of my favorite pesto combinations is cilantro and walnuts. So pesto isn't just for warm season herbs!

If you're making mass quantities of pesto right now like I am, you'll want to freeze pesto portions for future use. I like to scoop the pesto into ice trays, which make just about the right amount for a single portion. Cover the pesto in the tray with some plastic wrap and freeze. Then just store in freezer safe ziploc bags. Yum!

I get asked daily about what people can plant in their gardens here in Texas that will be low-maintenance, drought and heat tolerant, bloom with ease and tolerate some shade. There are not a lot of plants that fit that bill. If you're asking yourself that question and you want to plant right now (because it's PERFECT planting weather), then, WELL...what about Daffodils?

Yes, daffodils. I know, most of you will probably say, "but, daffodils are bulbs...". And you're right, they are bulbs. But they are also really tough drought tolerant perennials that can be planted in areas that receive some shade. They are especially great under deciduous trees, because they'll receive plenty of direct light while they are growing and before the trees leaf out.

The type of daffodils that typically perform best in the heat and humidity of the South are most of the Jonquil hybrids, however most Narcissus do very well. You'll find that the classic Trumpeted types are the group that tend to be least-adapted in terms of multiplying or long-term perennialization. The large- and small-cupped types do better.

Some of my favorites include 'Quail', N. bulbicodium, 'Jetfire', 'Hawera', and 'Thalia'. I also love the pinky/peach cupped varieties like 'Precocious' and 'Pink Charm', not to mention some of the fun split-corona types like 'Orangery'.

October-December is prime time to plant your daffodil bulbs in Texas. When you do plant, plant them deep! You'll find they are happiest when planted about 8"-12"inches deep, as the bulbs/roots like the cooler soil temperatures. Plus, this allows you to plant some seasonal color, like violas, right on top of them. The exception to this would be the mini-daffodils which have much smaller bulbs -they can be planted 4"-6" deep, so they are perfect for tucking in around already established perennials.

Mix some bulb-food in with the soil when you plant and water in. In the spring, after blooming, you'll want to allow the foliage to continue to grow, until the leaves start to fade and flop over, then you can cut the foliage down, but not before. Feed your established bulbs just after they finish blooming each year with a bulb food.

Daffodils will go dormant by the time summer comes around...so they won't even notice that the rest of us are baking away in the heat!

Yesterday morning I mounted and planted up two brown Woolly Pocket planters on my dining room wall. If you're in the Dallas area, you can get them at North Haven Gardens.

They look pretty fab already, but I imagine once the plants fill in more it will look even better. You'll want to use a mixture of plants that will provide some height, some fill with texture and foliage color, and some trailers that will eventually grow to cover much of the planter. For indoors, I suggest sticking to tropicals that can handle lower light conditions. You can even do African violets, orchids and the like as long as you have a nice bright North or South facing window. If you want to grow more blooming color, herbs or veggies then you'll want to mount your Woolly Pocket outside. In Texas, I DO NOT suggest trying to maintain wall planters like this on a West facing wall or spot that gets sun most of the day...Maintaining adequate moisture could be pretty problematic. Morning to mid-day sun with a few hours of afternoon shade would work best.

I placed the planters on a wall that faces a North facing window, so they get lots of bright ligh (but no direct sun rays) all day. I used North Haven Gardens Premium Organic Potting Soil, which is a mix I created. This is a medium to heavier weight mix with some expanded shale. Even though a peat based indoor potting mix would be lighter, I felt that due to the wicking action of the planters, too much peat could dry too quickly and be difficult to rehydrate. Make sure to put down a drop cloth of some sort...you will make a mess, lol. I planted with several trailing Philodendrons, a large purple Philo, Prayer plant, and several types of ferns. All of these species will appreciate the light exposure and do well with an air root-prunign type container such as the woolly pocket.

I mounted two pockets using the dry wall brackets included, in an overlapping fashion so you wouldn't see the bottom brackets or wall-space. Filled 1/2 way with soil, then went about arranging the plants. Make sure to wet the rootballs before you plant. Top-dress with potting soil but make sure you leave at least 1/2-1" clearance to the top edge of the pocket.

When you water, make sure to apply the water to the "tongue" of the planter, not directly to the soil. I used my small copper watering can because the spout is tiny and can deliver just enough, but not too much. water to the planter. The water will wick down and be pulled up by the plants through the "fabric". Don't ever apply more than 3 cups of water in one application.

You might also consider keeping a plant mister on hand as these types of tropicals do like a bit of extra humidity. Don't apply too much water to the foliage this way or you'll end up with water drips on your wall or floor.

Just remember, while you may see photos of this planter online, planted up indoors with herbs and edibles, realize that plants like that requiring a lot of direct sun won't sustain indoors more than a few weeks...stick to tropicals indoors and edibles outdoors. If you mount a substantial grow light over the planters, then you could probably get away with salad greens and some herbs indoors.

I have a feeling that I'm going to have to put up several more of these in my house...they are my favorite new gardening product and I think they are especially perfect for those who have limited garden space, live in a condo or apartment or want an easier way to display plants indoors. I've already had a few friends request them as Xmas presents! Guess I'd better get to work...

Ok, it's officially Fall. I realize "official fall" is still another week away, but the rain lillies are blooming and that's always my signal that fall is here. Actually, they started blooming 3 or 4 days ago in my garden. I have a number of small clumps of white, copper and a couple of other colors, transplanted from the garden at my previous house.

Zephyranthes candida

It means the night temperatures are coming down and barometric pressure is changing, favoring rain. And sure enough, we got some rain today. Isn't nature cool?!